Clutch

The hoaky bracket I made (still working with that little bolt)

Shaving the fork to clear the frame, clearance is tight!

Here you can see that I moved the pivot point in on the fork for more leverage

Here is the TLC MC, and the pigtail of wires from the Ford Harness

The Clutch I bought if came from napa and is a rebadged Luk. The clutch was made for the 92' flywheel that I bought. I have no idea what those extra pieces are that came with my kit in the picture, a small o-ring and a snap ring. I used a toyota land cruiser slave and master cylinder since that is what AA sells for their conversions. It actually did NOT have enough throw so I mounted it as close to the bellhousing as possible, which makes for a heavy pedal. I'd suggest going with the cast bellhousing and the slave and master that are made for the clutch. The toyota swinging pedals are very weak, I'd also recomend using the ford pedals - therefore you are getting the correct complete clutch system. To make the TLC master bolt up I made an adapter plate by tracing the old MC and the new and using both holes, it was pretty easy really..

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Engine

Look at all that fan clearance..

From the other side

On the Stand

Here is the mount

The donor for the engine is an 88' Mustang GT with the HO 5.0 engine. This is the first year of the MAS rather than the Speed Density so it is a bit easier to hop up when the 225 horsepower is not enough.

Mounts were purchased from Northwest off road, they look very nice and I am very happy with their construction. These could be easily fabbed but with all that goes into a motor swap it is nice to just drop the motor itself in..

Fuel System

The fuel line from Summit racing

AN fittings and filter threaded right on the EFI tank, it was meant to be!

I had this custom made, basically it is just the stock fuel rail cut and flared, anyone can do it but you need the 37degree flairing tool

The 5.0 uses a higher pressure fuel system than most EFI and a lot higher flow and pressure than stock toyota. You will need to upgrade your fuel lines and install a pump. I chose to swap fuel tanks to a EFI model so that I could put the fuel pump in the tank just like it was in the car. I did NOT use the toyota EFI pump, they are basically held in to the bracket in the tank by a hose clamp so save yourself the headache and just get the right pump. Mine came from the PnP and is working great! For fuel line I got the 3/8" line from summit and flared the ends to fit AN fittings on. Amazingly it threaded right on to the toyota tank inlet! I had a local hose shop make a short stainless braided hose to connect the hard line to the fuel rail itself - you need that joint because the engine will move.

The other part of a fuel system is the.. pedal! I kept the toyota pedal and actually just kept the throttle linkage from the donor car (another good reason to get a complete car). I basically clamped the end at the pedal on and the other end is a factory fit to the intake.

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Emmissions/Exhaust

Here is the exhaust I made using straight sections and old pipe, it got me to the referee but I am in the process of redoing it with new cats now (2 instead of 4!)

Here are the other two cats making 4 rigged with clamps, later redone with real hangers.

Here I welded the stock bungs into the exhaust for the sensors

The rear heat tube determined how far I was willing to push the engine back

At first all the stock emmissions from the mustang were carried over in order to be legal (and yes it passed the ref!). The tube that goes behind the engine is one of the biggest obstructions - a slight bit of hammering is about all I did, and that is what decided the location of the engine. Without emmissions the engine would have been a bit further back. Due to clearance issues I was not able to use the stock headers.. yet. I used stock 289 manifolds (from a 66' mustang) and they hug the block very well. I have put over 2000 miles on this exhaust and it seems to be working well, let's just say I didn't realize I had a head rest before and now when I hit the skinny pedal my noggin hits the headrest..

I used the original FOUR cats and bought a pair of summit racing ten buck mufflers that I actually really like. I just recently bought an entire new exhaust system on-line for $178 minus the mufflers to replace the 4 cats I have with two. Because of clearance this might be something to think about up front - I wanted to retain as much stock for the referee but now that I have passed it I started with a TWO cat system purchased on-line and modified it to fit..

Stock manifold reworked to clear the frame. The collector part is a flowmaster part sold by summit

The other side..

Here you can see the needed tight bend at the collector

Coming down the side of the transmission..

Propped up read to be welded

A few more of the bends (all done with bought bends welded together)

This part I had a shop do for me, from the mufflers back and they did a great job..

Here is the exhaust system from teh collectors at the manifolds to the mufflers

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Flywheel

The flywheel has to have the same offset balance similiar to the car manual flywheel but has to be made for a truck in order to have the larger clutch and for the truck starter, etc to work out. Sound confusing? Well the 351 is balanced the same as the HO 5.0 so get a flywheel made for a truck with a 351 and your golden. You can also have a regular truck flywheel rebalanced, but that's more work. The car one will be too small for the truck clutch.

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Oil Filter

You can read the part numbers here..

Here is the FMS adapter, the way to go!

This is what I ran at first but I was worried about the hoses getting cut by the pulleys..

The oil filter will hit the motor mount if used, therefore a remote filter is needed. I first went with one of those remote kits and it worked.. but less is best. I swapped it for a ford motorsports 90 adapter. This is one of the things I love about going ford - FMS has all the goodies you could ever want.

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Transmission/Bellhousing/Transfer Case

Here is the AA adapter and new main shaft	Tight clearance!	This is how I ran my shifter.. for a while..	This is bad! Read below..
Bellhousing.. don't get this one! (BB)	Here is a clearanced shaft (from Marlin)	Here is the stocker, notice the splines are "blocked"

Using a ford and wanting a manual somewhat limited me but I chose to go with a NP435 which has a first gear almost 2x as low as the toyota so I will be crawling a lot slower even with higher axle gears! I have heard of people using the T18, or the T5 - the T5 really isn't up to the job from what I have heard. You can aslo go with an AOD or other auto tranny but I have no experience with that.

The cast steel bellhousing, and clutch fork came from a ford f-250 w/ a t-18 and 205 - not sure what year. I needed the truck bellhousing to bolt the truck transmission on to, apparently there are very few bellhousings and some have the hookups for a hydraulic clutch and others were meant for a linkage clutch. I will need to make a bracket since mine was not made for a hydraulic slave cylinder but it is cast and I hear the aluminum ones tend to crack. If you haven't caught it from the picture the first bellhousing I got was the wrong one, it was for a big block. When you buy your parts be sure to check for fit as you go. I was lucky enough to find a wrecker that was willing to straight trade the bellhousing. The early bellhousings were never used with a hydraulic clutch setup so unless you want to stick with the manual setup your gonna need to fab. If I had it to do again I'd probly go with a newer aluminum bellhousing - MUCH lighter, with the mount for the slave cylinder, but also weaker (why I went cast).

The Marlin Dual setup that I have been running has never let me down so I am sticking with it, only I upgraded it to the 23 spline (same as a dana 300) shafts. The output of the stock toyota tcase is NOT splined all the way to correctly fit the adapter - don't cut the shaft, you will need to extend the splines with a cut off wheel or something (I used an air cut off wheel). Marlin and others now make longer splined shafts (wish I did that..) .

Shifter clearance is a major issue, if I could do it again I could cut OUT my firewall and push the engine further back, but I made that 90 shifter and of course it broke on the rubicon.. Now I run a bent (not welded) one and one of those mojave heaters.